Day 07 - Acco, Rosh Hanikra, Zefat

Comments at dinner this evening included words such as, “fascinating” and “interesting”. Our Monday in Israel was atypical and unique, a common thread through this tour. Today we visited Acco (or Acre) along the northern coastline of the Mediterranean, not a biblical site but a historical one and a modern city. This would have been around the area of ancient Tyre and Sidon. Acco is mentioned only once in the Bible – in the book of Judges. But our time there was focused on the era of the Crusades.

As we drove into the city, Ronen pointed out some original city walls with a double moat. We then parked and entered what resembled a castle, all made of stone with high arched ceilings. Because of Ronen’s marvelous grasp on history, he was able to summarize how the Crusades began and their purpose. He went back through layers found at this site which began with a modern city and went backward from the British Mandate to Ottoman Empire, Crusades, Romans, and Phoenicians. This structure had served a significant purpose as a hotel/hostel and hospital for those coming into the port from extended voyages overseas. The Crusaders capitalized on people’s needs and became very wealthy through this hospital.

In 1096 militant Muslims laid siege to Constantinople. In desperation, the leader of the Greek Orthodox Church called upon the Roman Catholic Church to send aid. The Greek and Roman churches were often at odds, but here they came together and pushed back against their attackers.

Then, just three years later, the Crusaders who had helped defeat the Muslims in Constantinople set their sights on reclaiming the Holy Land from Islamic control. They landed here, at the port of Acco, and set up a base at which they could receive and send out soldiers. The complex was buried by the Ottomans and only rediscovered in the mid-1900’s.

We then walked through the village market to a place with a sign overhead that said, “Templar Tunnels.” We then got an overview of how the Templars came to be and how they competed for hotel/hospital business as people came into port.

After a hot dog lunch picnic, we drove further up the coast to Rosh Hanikra, which means the “head of the grottos”. Everyone was exhilarated to see the vibrant blue and green of the Mediterranean. The sunlight sparkled on the waves while the salty air filled our senses. There were limestone cliffs with natural grottos to see! It is so steep we had to use a gondola car to ride up to the entrance. We walked through the cave paths and stopped to watch and listen to the waves crashing in. There also used to be a British railway that ran right along the coast through carved tunnels. The overlook was so beautiful we didn’t want to leave! Before we did, we got a group photo. This site is so close to Lebanon that there is a sign for the border!

We’ve been going hard the last week. We’ve visited a dozen or so sites, logged thousands of steps, filled page after page of notes, and we’ve enjoyed every minute of it. We have just two days left and a lot more to see and learn. But it was nice to pause for a moment and just be in a beautiful place.

Let the heavens be glad, and let the earth rejoice;
    let the sea roar, and all that fills it;

let the field exult, and everything in it!
Then shall all the trees of the forest sing for joy. (Psalm 96:11-12, ESV)

Next, we headed back south and inland, this time to Zefat (or Safed) in the upper Galilee. Located at an elevation of up to 3,074 feet, Safed is the highest city in the Galilee and in Israel overall. Walking up the neighborhood hills, we enjoyed watching many Orthodox children who had just gotten off the school bus. The little boys ran and waved, their long, curly sidelocks bouncing.

Ronen guided us into the Zefat synagogue where we sat and listened, surrounded by Jewish emblems like the star of David, the Torah (scripture) closet, and a large menorah. Soon we were walking down the narrow streets, which funneled into an intriguing Art Colony in the town. We passed gallery after gallery but only had time to visit one:  Leon Azulay’s. He is an amazing artist who specializes in microcalligraphy. He paints a scene which connects to a story from scripture, then meticulously adds shading and detail over the watercolor... except it’s not just shading, it’s line after line of minute Hebrew writing! Photos were not allowed, but check out his work at      https://www.leon-gallery.co.il/

We are tired but excited for tomorrow, our last day around Nazareth. Even though Jesus’ hometown probably had only 200 people, he grew up in a beautiful part of the country. I am processing everything we saw and did today, including what Rich shared at our morning devotion - that Christ crossed over to the "other side" (pagan area) to heal the demoniac in Mark 4. Even if it is for only one person, ministry is never a waste of time.

LAILA TOV (goodnight) from Israel!