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Much like God delivered His people to the Promised Land, He delivered our group safely to Israel last night (a slight challenge thanks to the global Coronavirus outbreak). And, after a good night’s rest at the Ein-Gev Holiday Resort situated on the Sea of Galilee, we headed north through the Hulah Valley to our first stop, Tel Dan. Our drive crossed the Jordan River and gave us views of the Golan Heights and Mt. Hermon to the east. The valley was green and lush with beautiful yellow flowers, but was off limits due to land mines buried during Syrian occupation of this area from 1948-1967.
The Tel Dan site is all about water! It is here where the head waters of the Jordan River begin. Tel Dan was a major cross road to all Eastern lands from the coastal city of Tyre, as well as the north/south trade routes. In the Bible, Judges 17 & 18 and 1Kings 12 give us two stories involving this northern boundary settlement of Dan.
On the northern frontier of the kingdom, Dan was particularly well fortified. This gatehouse was built in the ninth century BCE, probably by Ahab, and is part of a series of gateways discovered.
The Dan site includes an 8th and 9th century BC Iron Age gate and the Tel Dan Stela found here confirming the mention of “House of David,” referencing the people of Judah (2 Kings 9). Our trip leader and Tel Dan archeological expert, Dr. Jonathan Greer, then took us to the temple of Dan, one of the most important sites for Biblical archaeology and the best example of an ancient Israelite temple. Everything (architecture, movement within the site, animal bones, artifacts) found here by Jonathan and his colleagues point to the worship of Yahweh being worshipped here. It was also here, that Jonathan read to us from chapter 5 of the book of Amos where Amos “dismantles all that the Israelites associated with orthodox religion.” It was a challenge to the insiders of that day (and to us today) who thought they were doing everything “right.”
Our last stop within the Tel Dan site took us to the Canaanite gate from the Mid Bronze Age period (1700’s BC). Here stands the oldest mud brick triple archway in the world.
Our next stop of the day took us to Caesarea Philippi/Banias, an ancient Roman city near Tel Dan full of springs and a shrine dedicated to the Greek god, Pan. Caesarea Philippi is mentioned by name in the Gospels of Matthew and Mark and is where Jesus brings His disciples to the “Gentile land.” “Why are You bringing us here?”, the disciples asked Jesus. “Who do people say the Son of Man is?”, asked Jesus. He also asked of His disciples, “who do you say I am?” And, Simon Peter answered, “you are the Messiah, the Son of the living God.” (Matthew 16:13-20)
This abundant water supply has made the area very fertile and attractive for religious worship. Numerous temples were built at this city in the Hellenistic and Roman periods.
After a picnic lunch on the grounds of Caesarea Philippi, our group headed to Capernaum, Jesus’ hometown. We saw the remains of Peter’s mother-in-law’s house dating back to the 1st century, as well as the synagogue where Jesus surely taught and healed. Many of the best-known Biblical stories of Jesus’ healings and teachings take place here at Capernaum.
Our last stop of the day was the ancient Jewish city of Magdala, hometown to Mary Magdala. The remains of the synagogue here are the earliest example of a 1st century synagogue and another spot where Jesus most surely taught and healed. The Magdala Stone found at this site served as a stand for the Torah readings and depicts the oldest carved image of the seven-branched menorah, as well as a pillared structure with two wheels above a geometric shape illustrating fire, presumably representing the Holy of Holies. We also viewed the modern day chapel with the women’s atrium, a tribute to women in the Bible who followed Jesus, who love God and lived by faith. The eighth and unmarked pillar is for women of all time who love God and live by faith.
The end of our day saw the sun set on the Sea of Galilee!
Magdala, the birthplace of Mary Magdalene, was a prosperous fishing village at the time Jesus was active in this region. The ruins of this Roman village is now enclosed within a wall. The archaeologists uncovered the remains of the village dating from the time of Jesus, and a Byzantine monastery. A mosaic floor featuring a fisherman's boat was found at the place.
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