Barren, desolate, arid, wasteland

Barren, desolate, arid, wasteland. These are a few of the words that Ronan (our guide) was using to describe what the Bible calls “wilderness”.  After a day of traveling through the wilderness of the Negev we stayed overnight near the fortress of Masada by the southern part of the Dead Sea.  The beauty of this massive lake in the middle of the wilderness is a false hope for those seeking rejuvenation as the waters of the Dead Sea are toxic. This morning, however, we traveled a short 20 km North to a true oasis called Ein Gedi. 

Song of Solomon compares the beauty of Ein Gedi to that of a beloved.  And indeed it’s a sight for sore eyes - hope in a dry land. Here we find fresh water, green trees, bushes and date palms. We watched male and female ibex (Israel’s national animal) grazing in the trees (yes, IN the trees). The word “Ein” in Hebrew means “spring”. It’s here that David took refuge from Saul’s pursuit in 1 Samuel 23-24. This is also the place where David spared Saul’s life.

The shade of the trees and the sound of water rushing through the valley evokes a sense of relief and life. Waterfalls cascade one after another down the valley in stark contrast to the desert. It’s here where we finally experience “Meim Khiaim” - living water. 

The words of Jesus to the woman at the well reflect this truth. Jesus says that He can provide living water that will culminate into eternal life. When the woman asks where he gets this water he later explains “I am He”.

In Qumran we stop at the site where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered by Bedouin shepherds. The importance of this discovery can not be overstated. Just below the mountain we explored the ruins of an ancient community center built by the Essenes, a sect of Jews who prioritized copying the scriptures and the need to become clean through “Mikveh” - a ritual bath requiring living water. This water came down from the heavens as rain, fill the channels that led to the cisterns and then fill the baths.

As we finish our day, making our way further North toward Galilee, we begin a transition to the narrative of Jesus in the New Testament, where the book of John reminds us that the Word became flesh and dwelled among us; the source of life and the true Living Water that came down from heaven to make us clean.

—Jonny Ardavanis