Starting High – Ending Low

Our final morning in Rome began at the Colosseum. Built in the first century, this massive structure boasted 4 levels, with 80 archways adorning each level. Commissioned by Vespasian during the Flavian Dynasty, the arena hosted public events such as gladiator fights, wild animals and public executions. Completed during Domitian’s reign, the Colosseum dominated the city – a “colossal” statue of Nero made from gilded bronze welcomed the public until the 4th century.

Most poignant to us was the large cross which now stands where it is believed that emperors once asked early Christians to choose between worshipping pagan Roman gods and death. The atrocities suffered and the courage sustained by our early brothers and sisters in Christ has left a lasting imprint on our hearts. Returning to the text of Revelations we made connections to Rome, the empire, the emperors, and to the church today. Although written to warn, we also find encouragement in Revelations. Jesus Christ will return – we have hope in the truth that all things will be made new.

We were also brought to one of the hills of Rome – Palatine Hill. From this hill could be seen the size and wealth of the ancient city of Rome. Among the ruins is the rather humble home of Caesar Augustus, then the ever expanding grandeur of the palaces, temples, and archways dedicated to leaders and gods that celebrated the grandeur and dominance of Rome.

Paul came to Rome. He observed the spectacle. He likely witnessed the parades along the “sacred way.” Conquered peoples, their treasures, their leaders as well as their slaves were paraded before Roman people. Paul, in contrast, to the emperors, presented himself as humble, a slave, devoted not to an all-powerful leader, but to a crucified Jesus.

Moving down from the high ground we hiked to the Mamertine Prison. This 3000 year old prison is located under a 16th century church overlooking the Roman Forum. Two plaques marked the entrance to this site – one listed the names of important leaders who were held and had died at Mamertine. The second plaque listed the names of known martyrs and saints and their persecutors. The names listed first were Saint Peter and Saint Paul.

Descending downward into this primitive structure we observed the lowly cave-like cell where the saints were held, the hole from which they were fed, and the dark-dank look and smell of their shackled existence. We imagined the conversations Peter and Paul could have shared, the prayers that came from their hearts, and the words that had fallen on the soldier’s ears. The reality of “church” happening in this space captured our hearts.

Our day ended at the Church de San Clemente, built in the 12th century. Like a beautiful, tiered cake we were afforded the opportunity to witness 3 rich layers of church history. As was common, this space had been re-purposed throughout time and provided a deep look at the growth and change of the church. We observed majestic ceilings, beautiful mosaic, and expensive marble making up the rich frosting that was this latest church. As we dug deeper in time, we learned of a presiding priest who began excavating below his church and uncovered rooms and layers of history which revealed a 5th Century Basillica that was much less ornate than the Basillica above it. Beneath this layer, the final layer, was a house that dated to the 1st and 2nd Century AD. Our group sat in a room where early Christians gathered to worship God, the crucified Christ, hidden within the midst of the grandeur of the Roman World, yards away from the Roman Forum.

As we sat together in this small room without musical instruments, praise teams, microphones, video screens, or ushers, we saw the simplicity of being church together, uniting with courage, faith, love, and hope in the spirit of community. This is our legacy. This is what we stand on, and what we strive to become through Christ.

-Susie, Joann and Larry