Contrast and tension

Jerusalem is a city of contrasts and tensions — old (some very old) vs. new (modern); peoples and cultures that have occupied and staked claims to the same land; the multiple religions and cultures that not always peacefully co-exist in the city today. We started the day at the Ramat Rachel Hotel in a part of the city where those animosities have flared into warfare several times in the recent past.

Our tour took us to the City of David, which is nestled at the south side of the Temple Mount between the Kidron and Hinoam Valleys. Archeology in this area is ongoing, but is constrained by land ownership, religious controversy and the usual time and money issues. (Israelis usually only partially excavate areas, leaving some parts for the future when methods will be better.) We talked about how David took the city from the Jebusites, where he probably lived in the city, and how he sinned with Bathsheba. We were challenged to consider areas of our lives where we are subject to temptation, compromise, and sin. The group split at this point, a few to remain behind, some to take adry route through the Canaanite tunnels, and some to wade through Hezekiah’s tunnel. This tunnel was built to bring the spring inside the city gates, providing a dependable water supply and thus making the city much more defensible. We marveled at how these ancient workers could chip this 500-meter tunnel through solid rock and get the two sides to join in the middle! We could see each chisel mark!

After emerging from the tunnels, we sat at the Pool of Siloam and talked about the blind man that Jesus healed here (John 9). We were challenged to be like this man, who knew his scripture and stood up for what he knew to be true, even though the cost to him was great. As in many other cases, being “on location” and the comments of our very excellent tour guide Ronen added perspective that provided enlightening context to this familiar story. The Bible has truly come alive to us here in the Holy Land.

Next we went to the Mount of Olives. Ronen provided perspective on the Jesus’s triumphal entry and its relation to Zechariah’s prophesy. While we sat in the Garden of Gethsemane, Ronen described the preparations for the Passover meal and the elements of a seder, providing context for the events of the Last Supper. We considered the events of Jesus’s last night — prayer, sleepy disciples, betrayal, and arrest. In spite of the noise of traffic, it was a moving time of reflection amongst the olive trees. After visiting the Basilica of the Agony and the olive garden, we closed our time there with a sweet time of prayer.

Next we went to Liberty Bell Park to enjoy a dipping lunch with Israeli bagels and traditional dips (including Nutella, which Ronen tried to convince us was mentioned in the Bible. A stretch!).

After lunch we went to the Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Museum. Ronen shared with us before we entered some of his personal perspective. He told us the story of his wife’s family, some of whom were saved by one of the Righteous of the Nations who are individually recognized for rescuing Jews while most of the world turned their backs. It was a very sobering time. As we went through the museum, we had to wonder, what would we have done? Would we have had the courage of the blind man to stand up for what we know to be true even at great cost? It’s something to think about.

Dave and Kathy Keil

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