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Israel Study Tour - Rod VanSolkema

June 22 - July 4, 2014

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A view from the top

Our Shabat began on the Sea of Galilee aboard a wooden boat named “Hippos”.  We set off onto a placid sea, at which time Susie shared a story of God’s acceptance of us despite our imperfections.  Kyle led us in “Ten Thousand Reasons” and “How Great is Our God” then Rod taught from the text in which Peter sees Jesus walking on the sea and Jesus calls Peter out to Himself. It was a peaceful time of humble worship and reflection—an absolutely perfect way to begin our Sunday in Israel.  But, all too soon our Rabbi called out his frequent instructions, “Okay, let’s head for the bus” and we followed our Rabbi’s voice.

Today’s hike kicked off with an angry bull protesting our ascent up Mt. Arabel near the Sea of Galilee.  Blocking our way up the hiking path, he snorted and stomped his hooves a few times, making it clear that our presence there was unwelcome.  After a few tense moments, we were allowed to pass unscathed, but now with a healthy respect of the hillside locals.

Once atop the mountain, we beheld the incredible panorama of the region: the sea, the “evangelical triangle” of Bethsaida, Chorazin and Capernaum where Jesus conducted 90% of his earthly ministry, the Jordan River and Tiberias, a worldly outpost of power that attempted to check any uprisings in the region.  Here we could also see the Via Maris.  More than an ancient highway, it was a conduit for cultures, worldviews, languages, and the sharing of news.  As Rod said, it was the ancient internet. This was a region that possessed a variety of peoples, from Zealots to Herodians, from the Greco-Roman westerners and their power base, to a radical, new group of Jesus followers.  Of course, our Lord knew exactly what he was doing by launching his ministry in this region.  From the mountain top, we could imagine Jesus standing there, interceding for his new disciples caught in a storm in the sea below.  Our great high priest intercedes for us each and every day.

Some teachable moments provided the following personal and Christianity-wide questions.  Do we humbly and thankfully embrace the Jewish roots of our faith? How are we doing bringing Shalom to this world? Are we part of God’s Tecun Elam, or are we still worshiping a Savior who is a carbon copy of us?

The steep descent from Arabel challenged our sense of security.  Even the most stouthearted must have considered their mortality looking over sheer cliffs with no hand rails.   The experience also revealed the fragility of individualism, and the necessity of community.  For me, it was the highlight of the tour.  When I am weak, he is strong.

Mount Arbel

Mount Arbel (Hebrew: הר ארבל‎‎, Har Arbel) is a mountain in The Lower Galilee near Tiberias in Israel, with high cliffs, views of Mount Hermon in the Golan Heights, trails to a cave-fortress, and ruins of an ancient synagogue. Mt. Arbel sits across from Mount Nitai; their cliffs were created as a result of the Jordan Rift Valley and the geological faults that produced the valleys.

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Lunch was at a typical Israeli roadside restaurant—the locals’ answer to fast food where we enjoyed a hearty Falafel, a welcome break from the morning’s rigors, and celebrated Lynn’s birthday with ice cream bars, compliments of her generous husband.

Next stop: the Primacy of St. Peter, where many believe Jesus first called Peter, James and John.  At this idyllic seaside location with Cyprus trees, odd, long-necked water birds and an abundance of fish, we were reminded of what it means to follow a Rabbi.  It is much more than acquiring knowledge.  It was about becoming everything that a Rabbi is.   The lesson here focused on “being like Jesus.”  Indeed, discipleship is so contrary to our western concepts of value and worth.

Capernaum was next on our afternoon visits.  Here, we visited ruins of early basaltic foundations, millstones, and old synagogue where the paralytic was lowered before Jesus, who healed him because of his faith.  Next to this site, a newer Franciscan church was built above the ruins of a Byzantine Church, which was elevated by pylons above the ruins of what many believe to be Simon Peter’s mother in law’s house.  A glass floor in the new structure reveals these layers immediately below.

Capernaum

Jesus made Capernaum his home during the years of his ministry: “Leaving Nazareth he went and lived in Capernaum” (Matt 4:13).

Peter, Andrew, James and John were fishermen living in the village. Matthew the tax collector also dwelt here.

Capernaum is one of the three cities cursed by Jesus for its lack of faith.

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We stopped at Chorazin next.  By now, the temperature neared 110 degrees and the wind was like a blast furnace.  Lots of basaltic rock foundations and archaeological sites here, including Mikvah for ritual cleansing.  “Who is worthy to ascend the hill of the Lord.  Those with clean hands and a pure heart.”  This was at a synagogue site, originally built after Jesus ascended to heaven.   Here we examined the value and role of Torah in synagogues.  When we open the Bible, it is like entering the Holy of Holies.  Jesus spoke in all the synagogues in this area, and likely spoke in this one.  We also spent a good deal of time in cultural lessons on Insula or the Bet Ab or the household.  Totally contrary to western ideals and philosophies, this was a communal type of living.  It was a shared life.  Insula and family was your life back then; life wasn’t about you.  From the perspective of early church growth, it is key to learn that Insula was how the early church grew.  No buildings, no programs, no big congregations.  People learned about Jesus and were discipled around the dinner table and through relationships.  Today, the prime vehicle for reaching the world for Christ will be the same: through the kitchen, courtyard and home.  Again, we were also reminded how counter-culture this is in modern, western countries.

Chorazin

The synagogue at Chorazin is a typical “Galilean” style synagogue. These synagogues are characterized by 1) a basilical shape with three hallways separated by two rows of pillars; 2) three doorways and the central one is the largest; 3) benches around the interior walls; 4) a stylobate to support the weight of the arches.

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The final site was Bethsaida, very near where Jesus delivered his Sermon on the Mount.  Five of his disciples were from this small, rural town.  When Jesus left them, he told them to go out and tell the world, teaching them how to walk.  Geographically, Jesus often chose for these locations a Ramos Topos (Greek for “un-farmable land”) so as not to destroy farms.

By now, the intense heat began to scramble this blogger’s brain, rendering his thoughts undecipherable. The only solution: a refreshing dip in the Sea of Galilee back at our En Gev kibbutz.  Tomorrow promises more inspirations.  All of our company did a great job today under very strenuous circs!

Bill + Diane Treat

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