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Leaving Jerusalem this morning feels like a millennium ago with all of the things we did today, but what an adventure!
Beginning our bus tour portion of the trip, our first stop was Beth-Shemesh. We were on higher ground, looking down into the Sorek Valley. Across the valley we pointed out Zorah, an Israelite city where Samson was from, and then looked to our left and envisioned Timnah, a Philistine city where Samson's first wife was from. We talked through the narrative and discussed how close the two groups of people were, as well as how this was a land that would have been fought over. The valley was a direct pass into the Hill Country, and the land in the valley was useful for agriculture, so having control of Sorek Valley would have given economic security as well as travel access.
A border city between Judah and Dan, Beth Shemesh was given to the Levites. Beth Shemesh was the most important Israelite city in the Sorek Valley as it watched both east-west traffic through the Sorek Valley and north-south traffic along the “Diagonal Route.” Recent excavations have shown a thriving city here from the Middle Bronze Age through the Iron II period.
After exploring for a bit, we hopped back on the bus and went to Elah Valley, were David fought Goliath. There we were able to envision Saul's encampment and the well known battle of the giant that took place. It was so cool to read Scripture and see the land laying right out in front of us. The text was so tangible.
The Brook Elah is famous for the five stones it contributed to the young slinger, David. Some surmise that David chose five stones instead of the one needed in case he needed to face Goliath’s four brothers.
Our third stop was Lachish. This city was, at one point, the second most important city after Jerusalem. It had strategic 90 degree angle gates for entering, which kept it secure, until Sennacherib's army came and built a siege ramp up one of the sides of the city. Sennacherib and the Assyrians conquered Lachish, but they never were able to conquer Jerusalem. Hezekiah was king at that time, and it was at this time that he built the tunnel that we walked through yesterday.
Identified first as Lachish by Albright in 1929, the tell was excavated by James Leslie Starkey 1932-38 and by Tel Aviv University 1973-87.
Lachish is generally regarded as the second most important city in the southern kingdom of Judah. It enters the biblical narrative in the battle accounts of Joshua, Sennacherib and Nebuchadnezzar.
After Lachish we went to Ashkelon, a city on the sea! This city was one of the Philistine cities during Bible times. Here we looked at a mud brick gate that dates back to the patriarchal times, and also discussed a molded calf and jar that was found on this site signifying cult worship just outside the gates of the city. After looking at the gate, we got to go on the beach and stick our feet in the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. The waves were coming in and many of us were splashed more than expected, but we had a wonderful time. We ate lunch under a pavilion and then hopped back on the bus to continue our bus tour for the day.
Ashkelon (/æʃkɛloʊn/ also spelled Ashqelon and Ascalon; Hebrew: About this sound אַשְׁקְלוֹן [aʃkelon]; Arabic: عسقلان ʿAsqalān) is a coastal city in the Southern District of Israel on the Mediterranean coast, 50 kilometres (31 mi) south of Tel Aviv, and 13 kilometres (8.1 mi) north of the border with the Gaza Strip. The ancient seaport of Ashkelon dates back to the Neolithic Age. In the course of its history, it has been ruled by the Ancient Egyptians, the Canaanites, the Philistines, the Assyrians, the Babylonians, the Greeks, the Phoenicians, the Hasmoneans, the Romans, the Persians, the Arabs and the Crusaders, until it was destroyed by the Mamluks in 1270.
"Everything is tougher in the dessert"
Today we moved away from the bustling religious hub of Jerusalem to the storied and hot desert of Southern Israel. We primarily visited Lacish and Beth-Shemesh of the tribe of Judah, and Ashkelon of the Philistines. Our trip to the great down under of Israel provided quite the contrast to civilized Jerusalem, and we were able to glance into a world completely unlike anything we had seen before. Travel centers with free wifi and lemonade were replaced by dry deserts and empty, winding valleys. Camels and desert lizards were far more common sites then Americans. Old religious churches and shrines were nowhere to be found, but occult places of worship from centuries long ago abounded. The air was dry, almost suffocating, and the son scorched down on our heads like some of us have never known. The phrase "Everything is tougher in the desert" certainly rings true of South Israel. This desert land truly puts into perspective some of Jesus' teachings: "And if your friend asks you to go with him one mile, go with him two. If he has no cloak, give him yours". The desert is a land lacking in resources and friendship, and Jesus calls His people to go out into the desert areas of this world and provide friendship and a helping hand in a lonely area where help is few and far between.
When one observes the desert, the untrained eye would assume there is not much out here worth living and dying for, but history spins another tale. Some of Israel's bloodiest histories, modern and ancient, took place in this desert land. The sites we visited proved no exception. Our first stop was at Beth-Shemesh, a frequent battle site for the Israelites and Philistines. The ancient city is still under excavation, and we were greeted by archeologist hard at work. Beth-Shemesh sits a top of a strategic hill, overlooking one of the very few and precious fertile valleys suitable for agriculture. This flat plain provided food for its inhabitants, but also a gateway through the Judean Hill Country to reach the capital of Jerusalem and beyond. Samson was also from around this area, and it is not inconceivable to believe he may have traveled here at many points. Beth-Shemesh remains a point of contention today, evidenced by the F-15 Israeli air force fighter that flew overhead of us, and a spent rifle bullet we found nestled in the rocks.
While in the area, we also visited Askad, a hill overlooking the valley were David slew Goliath and made his name as future champion and hero of Israel. We then briefly stopped at Lacish, the site of a great battle between King Sennacrib of the brutal Assyrians and the Israelites. The Israelites craftily constructed their defenses atop the hill, creating narrow and winding roads leading up to the gate, making siege engines nearly useless. However, the Assyrians constructed a siege ramp, using slaves (possibly even Israeli salves), leading straight to the residential area of Lacish. There the Israelites were forced to watch their impending doom construct day by day before their very eyes. It is an unimaginable horror to remain stranded at the top of a hill, watching your death manifest itself below you, while the hands of your countrymen in bondage quicken your demise. The Israelites were penetrated by the siege ramp, and the city fell. King Sennacrib created a relief, boasting of his victory that day, and the greedy king had Jerusalem in his crosshairs next. However, due to careful planning, preparation, the construction of a magnificent underground tunnel for water (which we visited/swam through yesterday), and heartfelt religious reform by the great King Hezekiah, Jerusalem would be saved, and Judah would continue on.
We journeyed on, and took a quick gander into the Mediterranean Sea at Ashkelon. Ashkelon was ruled by the Philistines primarily, and we were able to see one of the only remaining mud-brick gates still intact. After a quick lunch, we continued and stopped at lonely Israeli fortress-city in the middle of the desert overlloking the area, giving us valuable perspective on what life was like in those days. Eventually, we meandered back to our hotel, where we are currently bunkered in, awaiting a tough day ahead of us tomorrow when we partake of some of the most infamous and grueling trails Israel has to offer.
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